A long day of travel awaits. I'm on the 6 am flight from Missoula to Denver . . . then Denver to Houston . . . and finally, Houston to Lima. I watch the sky darken from the window of the plane, and see unfamiliar constellations rising above the horizon. The plane begins its descent, and I see an enormous coastal city spread out below, golden …

I eat a good breakfast this morning--toast and eggs and fruit and papaya juice--before Boris arrives. The streets that were deserted last night are now busy with morning traffic. I know that not all of Lima's 9 million people can possibly be driving through the streets right now, but it certainly seems like it. Buses, taxis, bicycles, mopeds …

After a good breakfast--toast, cereal, fruit, eggs, bacon, and pineapple juice--Marco picks us up to take us to Sacsayhuaman. We pile into a large van and wind our way up one of Cusco's many hills. The air is crisp and clear, the sky blue, the sun shining brightly. Another perfect day. We settle on the springy grass, away from the other …

Today we are off to the Sacred Valley. We have been given Adventure Life duffel bags, which we pack with the clothing, sleeping bags, etc., we'll be using for the next few days on the Inca Trail. The rest of our luggage is placed in a locked storage room at the Del Prado Inn. We pile back into the now-familiar van and make our way out of the …

Inca Trail, Day 1! I wake early, before 6, and slip out to explore Ollantaytambo in the quiet of the morning. I find the central plaza, see the men in their colorful garb--orange-red shawls and hats--and walk around the town as it awakes. After breakfast at the hotel, Marco takes us to buy walking sticks--broomsticks with rubber tips and …

These days are so good. I sleep well, to the sound of gentle rain on the tent, and I wake up to roosters crowing at 5. At 6, two porters stop by my tent with a tray bearing tea bags, Nescafe, hot chocolate powder, and hot water. I go for the coca tea, and have nearly finished my cup when the porters return bearing a bowl of warm water to wash …

Today we have two more passes to cross, but compared to Dead Woman's Pass they seem minor bumps indeed. I continue to be awed by the beauty of this country, as well as its spiritual richness. The clouds shift above us, below us, around us, constantly changing the face of the land. The sky beyond the clouds is a high, bright blue, and the land …

I wake earlier than usual this morning, and Marco, Bill, and Brenda V. and I hike up above our campsite to a high hill to watch the sun rise. The mountains spread out all around us, snow-capped peaks rising high amongst the shifting clouds. Salcantay, 'the wild one,' rises high and white and majestic into the blue sky, so beautiful it brings …

We have decided to sleep in a little this morning--that is, we're not going to get up for the 6 AM bus up to the ruins. The 8 AM bus will do just as well. The round trip shuttle fare is 40 soles (~$13), and we are back at Machu Picchu by 8:30. Marco takes us around for the first few hours, showing us some of the most popular sections--the …