Laura Finds Luxury in Mexico

I have given in to luxury. I decided this after my 60-minute massage in a fluffy cotton robe lounging in a private cabana in a lush tropical garden sipping orange water. I returned to my ocean front terrace, sipping tequila on an oversized chaise lounge with the sight, sound, and smell of the ocean overwhelming my senses.

This was not an easy realization for me to come to - such opulence makes me uncomfortable. My travel style began in the back of the car with my brother and sister driving to the Western United States, continued with backpacking in Europe, then living and studying in the former Soviet Georgia. My honeymoon trip was to Peru, which of course has a luxury of its own in culture and adventure, but not in a beach-side resort way.

I arrived in Los Cabos on a sunny warm afternoon (I think all afternoons are here) and dodged a frenzy of men slinging condominium time shares to find the welcoming face of my One & Only Palmilla driver. In the transfer car, excuse me, Hummer, with built-in Wifi, snacks, bottled water, and other items to freshen up after a long  flight, I had the chance to quickly let my loved ones know I made it safe and sound, and then, more importantly make them green with envy of the warmth and impending Mexico luxury.

The One & Only Palmilla has a comfortable luxury, no pretension - yes, sure you have a butler at your beck and call, personalized aromatherapy, free tequila, fruits, and chocolate in your room, complimentary spa treatments, poolside foot massages - but the staff is warm,welcoming and graciously assists. They all greet you with their right hand over their heart, a gesture that shows their welcome comes from the heart.  This genuine thoughtfulness is for the guests' comfort, and it put me at ease to just enjoy the stay!

Our group met early in the evening in the One & Only Palmilla's herb garden - a quite peaceful locale on the property. The herbs used in the hotel's restaurants are grown here. The aromas of basil, rosemary, mint and thyme waft around the enclosed gathering area with a private bar and lovely covered dining area. The table was set with eight flutes of tequila, some limes, and a few amuse bouche bites. I must admit I was nervous, if not apprehensive about this tasting. My knowledge of tequila, as with many people from the U.S., is "lick the salt, take the shot, and suck the lime." That can still be a part of the experience, but as I found out this liquor is so much more complex than I could ever have imagined.  Ernesto, our teacher as well as wine and tequila master,  quickly dispelled this extreme simplification of the liquor.

The name tequila was adopted from the region in which the drink originated some 200 years ago. Today this region is in the highlands of Jalisco (there are a few other states it can be produced), and it can only be called tequila if it is from these areas. It is through the distillation of the fermented heart of one specific variety of the Blue Agave plant that we get this spirit. Ernesto dispelled the rumor of the tequila worm - which was a gimmick started in the 1940s for low-end Mezcal, another spirit made from a different variety of Agave.

Before me sat eight small wine glasses in varying degrees of silver and gold. We start slowly by lightly smelling, then taking a very small sip to prepare the palate. A little bite on a lime can help with the bite that is likely to come with the drink.  The first glasses we try are the Silver or Blanco, it is un-aged and bottled immediately after distillation. Blanco is the youngest of the family; it has a bit more of a brashness of youth in its initial taste, but it leaves your palate sweet and clean. Typically, it is had as an aperitif to get you ready for an evening of good food. The next one we try is Oro, or Gold; it is rarely 100% agave and sometimes even food coloring is added. Oro is the party girl of the family, and you can find her behind every bar from Chihuahua to Missoula to Amsterdam. She gets around and is commonly used for margaritas, although the Blanco has the cleanest flavor for mixing. We then moved on to, Reposado, or Rested, tequila aged for a minimum of two months but less than a year in oak barrels. This is the devastatingly handsome older brother of the tequila family. There is a complex sweet taste of butterscotch and vanilla that leaves you wanting to know and taste more. A little bit of lime allows you to explore his darker, smokier side. He is someone you could spend an evening with, but take care as he has a dangerous side. The grandfather of the family is Anejo, or Old; lolaged a minimum of one year to three years in oak barrels, (and Extra/Ultra Anejo, over three years in an oak barrel). It as a bold, rich flavor that takes the Reposado's smokiness to a whole other level. He has been around the block and knows how to please with a deep earthy and, at times, dark chocolate flavor.

I learned that tequila doesn't have to be scary or drank quickly. It is a liquor that can be appreciated by taking it slowly, sip by sip. Much like great travel, it is something best taken day by day, experience by experience to fully appreciate where you are and who you are with. Click here to read more about Laura's luxury Mexico tour.

On our drive from Los Cabos to Todos Santos, we stopped along the highway at one of the few swimmable beaches on the Pacific side of Southern Baja, Playa Los Cerritos. We found a quaint hotel and restaurant property catering to surfers and families of surfers, to swim and enjoy a Baja lunch on the beach. 

 
As soon as I had my suit on I was running over the hot sand to the water. The knowledge that the water is in the high 60s to low 70s did not deter me. I may be from the landlocked state of Montana and the whitest white girl ever, but when I see ocean, I want to be in it! It was a brisk first plunge, but so worth it for the salty taste of the ocean on my lips and the waves pulsing around me.

Sufficiently chilled and my ocean fix sated for now, I sat down to an amazing family style lunch of ceviche, fish tacos with homemade salsa, and a beer. With the hot beach, cool blue ocean, amazing food and good conversation it dawned on me, I'm in a Corona commercial*. I must have thought out loud because my fellow Mexican traveler laughed and said, "Because it is real. Those places exist in Mexico!" It was too true. I could have stayed there in that moment and been happy with my vacation, but there was just too much more of Mexico to explore! *Yes, I am aware that I am drinking Pacifico, I find that it is far superior to Corona, they just don't have dreamy commercials. Click here to read more about Laura's luxury Mexico tour.

The sea, once it casts its spell, holds one in its net of wonder forever.  - Jacques-Yves Cousteau
Nestled between the Baja California Peninsula and mainland Mexico is the Gulf of California, also known as the Sea of Cortez. Famous oceanographer and marine conservationist Jacques-Yves Cousteau called this area "the world's aquarium" because of its immense diversity. This little bit of sea holds one-third of the Earth's marine mammals, some 900 birds nest or migrate through the gulf throughout the seasons, and nearly 900 fish call this narrow but deep and fertile trench of water home. I was fortunate enough to spend a couple of days exploring this unique area that once enchanted Jacques-Yves Cousteau. We arrived La Paz and immediately hopped on a motorboat headed for the the UNESCO World Heritage site of Espiritu Santo Island to snorkel with some friends I had meet on a previous trip to the Galapagos: sea lions! Yes, I have a tendency to anthropomorphize animals, but these playful, mischievous, intelligent animals really do make you feel like you have met a friend under the sea. The young pups seek out snorkelers and divers to play with and show off their amazing swimming skills.  After the pups got bored with our  inability to do a spinning back-flip underwater, we headed back to the motorboat and towards a bay on Espiritu Santo Island.

We arrive just in time for lunch on remote caramel-colored sand beach.  Grass cabanas and huts dot one side of the beach, along with a small but complete kitchen and dining area. It is easily somewhere you could spend a few over-nights. After another amazing lunch, I head out in a kayak to explore the cliffside areas of the bay, as others take out paddle boards on the turquoise waters.

I spend some time getting sufficiently sunburn relaxing on the beach, we head back to the motorboat and to La Paz. It was an amazing day on and in the water, so ready to do it again tomorrow! ---------------------- Day two in the World's Aquarium, we board the Besame Mucho, a beautiful sailboat, which is ours for the afternoon, and sail up the coast towards Balandra Bay.  The ship is stocked with all of the comforts of home, some shaded and sunny lounging areas surrounded by gorgeous mahogany wood that glows in the sun.

Our Mexico vacation offers another lovely sunny day on the water, as we anchor in the crystal clear waters of Balandra Bay. We are given free access to snorkeling equipment and a couple kayaks. Since it is a ways to the shoreline, I hitched a ride on the back of a kayak with my snokel in the water. I spotted some fish, but nothing spectacular. It was just nice to be in the water, feeling the swell of the ocean and seeing nothing but the blue-green seascape.

After some much needed diving of the "plank" we all convened for lunch at a large table full of ceviche, oysters, various fixings for seafood tacos. After we sufficiently gorged ourselves, we have just enough time for one more Pacifico and a quick dip in the World's Aquarium. It was time to say good by to one of Jacques', and now my, favorite places.

Au revoir y adios La Paz, hasta que nos encontremos de nuevo.
Click here to read more about Laura's luxury Mexico tour.

Travel has become less about the journey and more about the destination. We are all a victim of this paradigm shift! I think "bucket listing" is more and more predominate in our ever expanding and ever accelerating world. Rarely do people bucket list travel routes beyond Route 66 and even that is a disappearing icon in the United States. The world moves so quickly now that we take little time to experience the movement from one place to another. For me road trips out west were a summer highlight. However, the journey was what I loved most; car bingo, truck stop gift shops, CB radio chatter, animal counting contests. Of course being in the West and in the mountains was amazing and eye-opening for this Midwestern girl. But it was the experience of the trip, the movement through different sights, sounds, cultures and geography that made me fall in love with travel.

The Chihuahua-Pacific train, better known as El Chepe, travels from the coastal state of Sinaloa to the mountainous state of Chihuahua. It starts in the coastal lowlands, up into the Sierra Madre, then over and through several canyons which skirt Copper Canyon. We move through the desert landscapes progressively getting higher and higher in elevation, moving  into a dry pine forest. There are quaint towns and hotels to stay in, but the train ride is the destination. Each stop along the way gives the passengers another glimpse in to real life in Mexico.

The train itself is an older style train popular with tourists and locals alike, with first and second class accommodations. The dining car is comfortable and the food is excellent, it is completed with smartly dressed and welcoming waiters. The first class seats are spacious and comfortable, but I spent the entire ride hanging out of the door between the cars. This gives amazing access to the sights, sounds, and smells of the changing terrain and train. The 87 tunnels and 37 bridges (one tunnel is 5,965 ft long and the highest bridge is 335 ft high) incite excitement in my fellow train thrill seekers with hoots and hollers! This is truly a wonderful way to travel Mexico. El Chepe allows you to experience some of the cultural and geographical diversity that Mexico has to offer each tunnel and bridge at a time. Click here to read more about Laura's luxury Mexico tour.

Our first overnight on the great El Chepe Mexico adventure in the little town of Cerocahui (approximately a 40 min drive from the Bauhichivo train station), I agreed to go horseback riding. I'm not sure if it was the tequila or the high elevation that got me to do it. I'm not afraid or against horseback riding; I like horses. It just seems any "organized" horseback riding trip is slow paced, "nose to bum" the whole ride. Not to mention that I always get the crazy horse, not sure if its their shifty eyes, gleaming coats and wild manes straight from Mordor*, but those are the ones I end up with. This time was no different - meet Mono (Monkey, in Spanish). He was clearly the town's pride and joy racehorse, as he was gorgeous and ready to completely jump out of his skin to run over the Sierra Madres! Our horseman, Francisco, had to hold his reigns so he didn't bolt, which is fine since I didn't want to die, but was severely boring.

After about 10 minutes of pouting, one of the other riders with more experience offered to swap horses, as he was on a much more docile horse or so we thought. Meet Mono, another Mono, I dubbed him Mono Dos (Monkey 2) and instantly felt bad that he was "the second one" to the glamourous, pride of the village Mono (#1). Apparently the village children named the horses and apparently they aren't very creative or really like monkeys. The ride continued out of town and in to some idyllic graze land, over the river and through the woods. It was a relaxing ride and allowed us to see a little bit more of Mexico's country-side. Mono Dos knew exactly where he was going, there was no straying from the path he has ridden a hundred times. I resigned my self to enjoy yet another nose to bum ride, at least I wasn't on the crazy horse.

I was getting lazy on the ride, I didn't need to know were we were going since Mono Dos knew it so well, until we hit the top of the hill over looking the village to head back to the hotel. I'm not sure who's horse started it first, but they all started to get antsy and ready to bolt. We were all unsure it was alright for us to leave behind Francisco, but we couldn't help it, the horse couldn't help it. We had to run. So I let Mono Dos run.  I got up in the saddle, squeezed my knees into his heaving sides as we went down the hill into town, hit the flat span of the main road I let him go. I have never galloped so hard before, it was in that moment that I got it, I understood why people loved horses. Speed and power like this was addictive.  Then the dogs came, barking and running along side us, I could tell Mono Dos did not like this but was unsure if I was comfortable with more speed to surpass the dogs. I gave him a little whip on the bum to let him know "Let's leave these four-legged droolers in the dust!" He stretched out, full on sprinting when me in a full squeezing squat, holding on to his mane and dying of laughter as I blow by the locals staring at this crazy blonde girl racing through the town's main plaza. And just like that it was over, Mono Dos knew to stop at the fence just below the hotel he stopped and lined back up next to his herd in the shade, just as he had done a hundred times before. I like to think for a moment when we broke into that raging gallop he was just Mono.

*My apologies on the Lord of the Ring's reference. It is the most evil place I could think of that doesn't get political. Click here to read more about Laura's luxury Mexico tour.

I'm not really afraid of heights, but I have a healthy respect for gravity. As a child I loved climbing to the highest possible point in a tree, hugging the trunk and let the wind sway the tree and me. I was always the one on top of the playground, jungle gym, swing set or the one who leaned at little to far over the edge for my mother's liking. Maybe its because I'm short that I want to see things from a higher perspective. It wasn't until a trip to the Cologne Cathedral in Germany that my brain and body realized, "Oh, Did you know? You can die up here, this high!?" We had climbed all the way to the top, it was a gorgeous view of  a lovely European town, but you could go higher to the bell tower. As I climbed the metal grated (i.e. see through) steps, I could see where we were just standing, the other towers of the cathedral, the ground, and the entire expanse of the Germany Empire (or so I felt) and my body froze. Enter adventure travel. Pretty much every where Adventure Life travels, you can zipline and when we travel to learn about our trip destinations the locals want us to see and experience the best of the best. Enter the zipline.
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 By day two on the train, we had reached the Mexico's Copper Canyon, Barranca del Cobre. This canyon is one of the biggest canyons in the world, even bigger than the Grand Canyon. It is 6000 feet deep rather than the Grand Canyons 4500 feet deep. Copper Canyon is not has dramatic as the Grand Canyon but it is far more expansive than it is steep. It has seven major and over twenty minor canyons rather than vertical walls plunging down into one raging river. Sunrises are gorgeous here, becuase all of the canyons there is so much light and shadow play. Photos look neat, but it truly cannot beat the in-person view (even in dry season!). Our goal was to zipline some of these canyons ranging from 150 to 1500 feet high. Again I remind you of my "healthy respect for gravity". The adventure park has the second longest zip-line in the world, a three quarters of a mile in length . I hate to say it but "go big or go home, right?", so I did it. We traversed several side canyons in 7 stations and walk over 2 swinging bridges, which I think were worse than the ziplines!

It was all spectacular! The heights never really bothered me even when my fellow travelers tried to shake the hanging bridges as I walked. Then I got creative, I'm kind of a speed freak so I started tucking into a tiny ball to go faster or I would lean backwards, feet in the air to see everything upside down. I was an amazing rush to say the least. I was hopped up on adrenaline for days afterwards; any canyon, ravine, or expanse of space I would imagine a zipline. It was an amazing way to end my Mexico tour and left me wanting to see more!

Adios! Click here to read more about Laura's luxury Mexico tour.