Exploring Peru

I became curious about Peru during our trip to Ecuador last year with Adventure Life. The Andes intrigued me during our travels in and out of Quito. The tipping point came after I read an interesting book entitled “Last Days of the Incas” by Kim MacQuarte. This book basically covers the history of the Inca Empire starting with the invasion of Peru by Pizzaro and ending with the Spanish conquest of Peru and killing of the last Inca emperor hiding in exile in the Amazon. How could a people develop one of the largest empires the world has ever known in just 100 years? Furthermore, how could such a large relatively advanced civilization be conquered in such a short period of time by so few Spaniards? Adventure Life’s “Panoramic Peru” trip helps put some of the answers to these questions in perspective. I suspect many if not most tourists visiting Peru fly into Cusco and go to Machu Picchu. While this is certainly a wonderful experience, if one wants to gain a deeper understanding of Peruvian culture, the “Panoramic Peru” tour is a great trip. As always with Adventure Life, the local guides are wonderful and they accompany you during the entire trip. I can’t believe we did as much as we did during our two weeks! We arrived in Lima in the afternoon via TACA Airlines. Most flights apparently get in later and people stay at the Ramada Inn right across the street from the airport. Since we were to arrive earlier, our tour coordinator changed us to a nice hotel in Miraflores, a prosperous commercial section of Lima with nice shops, restaurants and art galleries. We had a chance to go out to a nice restaurant the night of our arrival and then returned to our hotel.

The next day, we had time to walk up to Parque Kennedy, a lovely park surrounded by beautiful buildings including Iglesia de la Virgin Milagrosa and the Municipal Palace. On weekends, people gather in the park, dance in the amphitheatre and sell art along the sidewalks. We didn’t see much of Lima as we left for Nazca around noon. However, I will blurt out some of the images that stand out in my mind: dense marine layer creating a grey hue to everything; lots of Chinese eateries (chifas); rotisserie chicken (pollo a la brassa); lots of colorful buses belching diesel fumes. After strolling around Miraflores in the morning, we decided to try out the pollo a la brassa before our scheduled pick up at the hotel. We had about an hour before we were to leave for the bus station. Being Americans, I suppose we thought we were going to a fast food chicken joint like KFC. However, I knew we were going to be pressed for time after we ordered the chicken and saw the cook starting to put the whole uncooked chickens on to cook! We made our rendezvous just in time and met Carlos, our guide for the next week. After a short ride to the bus station, we boarded the biggest bus I have ever seen! We sat on the lower level in plush seats that can recline almost horizontal. If you can believe it, the bus had TV, meals and WIFI! Our several hour bus trip to Nazca took us along the southern coast of Peru, some of the driest desert on earth. I have to say this is some of the dreariest landscape I have ever seen! The marine layer combined with the fact that this desert is so dry that there is often not a living plant for miles, results in a general lack of contrast that is somewhat depressing. Fortunately, green valleys through which rivers flow out of the distant Andes occasionally give one some relief. The only other structures to break up the monotony are the chicken farms constructed on the open sand. All that rotisserie chicken has to come from somewhere! We arrived in Nazca in the late afternoon and were picked up at the bus station in a small van for the short ride to our hotel, the beautiful Hotel Majoro. I would be lying if I told you that Nazca was a “vacation destination”. Rather, it is a dusty outpost struggling to survive in a harsh, dry climate. The two main industries are tourism and mining. Thank God for the Nazca Lines and thank God the price of gold is going up! As we traveled a short distance out of town, off the main highway and down a bumpy dusty road, I almost caught myself wondering where we were going to set up camp. We suddenly arrived at a tall wooden gate. After honking our horn, the gate suddenly opened and we were amazed to see huge bougainvillea trees with bright pink and red flowers surrounding a lovely courtyard and fountain. So great was the contrast that I had to close my eyes for a few seconds! The Hotel Majoro used to be a hacienda and it sits like a little oasis in the most unexpected place. The grounds are beautiful and a grazing lama, horse and peacocks add a peaceful charm to the place. Yes, it has a swimming pool and poolside bar. Thanks Adventure Life! That night, we had dinner with our guide Carlos. As with all the other Adventure Life guides we have met, Carlos is extremely knowledgeable and excited to share his country and culture. As the week unfolded, he became a good friend. He lives in Arequipa and his parents own a farm on the coast. Carlos began to introduce us to Peruvian Cuisine. I found the food in Peru to be more flavorful in general than in Ecuador. Great soups, great meat dishes, Pisco Sour and last but not least, Inca Cola!

At breakfast the next morning, we discovered that Peruvians are not coffee drinkers. However, coffee was readily available and generally very good. We also quickly discovered that Peru has great fresh fruit and juices. During the entire trip, whatever juice we ordered appeared to be fresh squeezed. Is it a sign of a more advanced culture when all the juice is either from concentrate or sweetened with high fructose corn syrup? After breakfast, we were off to the Chauchilla Cemetery. We soon passed one of the world’s biggest sand dunes (over 3000 feet high), and then turned off into the desert about a half mile until we arrived at our destination. The Cemetery represents a pre-Inca civilization which mummified their dead and buried them in sitting positions. Twelve graves have been excavated. Unfortunately, long before formal excavations began, the locals discovered the site and dug up many of the graves looking for gold. In fact, this apparently still goes on at night and one can see many indentations in the sand where holes have been dug. Next, we drove back towards town and stopped at a shop where the owner makes Nazca styled pottery patterned after ancient pottery found in the area. All the paints are made from local plants. We bought a few pieces to take home with us. The owner looks like a character out of a movie but I don’t know which one! He used to be a baker but learned the art of Nazca pottery from his wife who no longer works because of her poor eye sight. Wanna dig for gold? Most of the local mining is done by individual prospectors using primitive tools and involving back-breaking labor. All you have to do is just hike up into the barren mountains nearby, manually dig, pick and blast out rock, put it into sacks and carry it out. Then you take the rock to one of several extracting businesses in town, pay them a fee to use the facilities and try to extract minute quantities of precious gold. The process involves crushing the rock and mixing it into slurry with mercury. Any gold combines with the mercury. This process involves standing on top of large stones shaped like rolling pins and rocking back and forth for six hours. Sound like fun? If you’re lucky, you make enough to put food on the table without developing mercury poisoning! After lunch at the hotel, we headed over to the local airport to catch our small plane for a flight over the Nazca Lines. This is why we came to Nazca and I was looking forward to seeing what many books list as one of the Seven Wonders of the World. We were not disappointed! No one really knows how the figures were actually constructed. How could such large images be made on the ground by people who did not have the perspective of viewing them from above? Thus the theory about aliens, Etc. Most current thinking centers on the belief that the figures somehow indicate sources of water in the dry God-forsaken desert. My favorite two figures were the hummingbird and spider. If you are prone to motion sickness, take something before the flight. The plane makes sharp banking turns so that the figures are visible to the passengers. Unfortunately, despite taking bonine, my wife spent most of the flight looking at the inside of a plastic bag rather than the ground. We spent the afternoon relaxing at the hotel before being shuttled to the bus station for our all-night trip to Arequipa.

We arrived in Arequipa the next morning, checked into our hotel, and had a chance to shower and rest before meeting Carlos for a stroll through the old section of the city. This is a charming area characterized by colonial architecture and narrow cobblestone streets winding between buildings constructed with white volcanic stone. We soon experienced what would be a recurring theme in most of the cities and towns we visited—the Plaza. The Spanish explorers (more appropriately termed “treasure hunters”) certainly deserve a lot of criticism for their harsh treatment of indigenous people throughout South America. However, the Plaza represents one of their more positive legacies. Most plazas are large open spaces often surrounded by important buildings such as churches, government palaces, etc. They typically encompass parks with gardens, mature trees and fountains. They are a welcome gathering place for the locals who enjoy visiting on park benches or carrying out business. In fact, we came across a group of men with old fashioned type writers. They represent Peru’s version of Legalzoom.com. If you need a document such as a building permit, or any other legal paperwork, forget the lawyers! All you have to do is head over to the plaza and pay a small fee to have it typed out on the spot! We stopped for lunch and had another opportunity to sample the local cuisine. Carlos loves pork and makes no apologies for it! In fact, he dreams of visiting the United States some day and feasting on southern barbecue! He introduced us to Chicharrones which consists of pork rinds fried in their own fat. I tried the Rocotos rellenos (stuffed peppers) which was delicious. Most dishes are served with potatoes of which there are hundreds of varieties, rice and corn. We quenched our thirst with Pisco Sours. The drink is made from a grape brandy, lime juice and egg whites blended with ice. It is very good and tastes like a marguerita. After some shopping, we headed to an alpaca outlet. Peru is known for its fine Alpaca wool products and we had a chance to see some animals up close and get a general idea how the wool is processed, dyed and used to make sweaters, scarves and blankets. I thought the prices were very reasonable and we purchased several beautiful sweaters. For the most part, alpacas and llamas are docile animals. However, being members of the camel family, they have one nasty habit---they like to spit! We were warned that if you see their ears fold back, stand clear. In fact, at another alpaca outlet in Cusco, my wife was suddenly enveloped in a steamy cloud of saliva! You haven’t really been to Peru until you have been spit upon! That evening, our kids were exhausted and decided to stay at the hotel while my wife and I walked to Zig Zag restaurant for dinner. We had a chance to taste alpaca steak which was delicious. It is similar in taste and texture to veal. After a satisfying dinner at one of the best Peruvian fusion restaurants in the city we soon learned how reasonable the prices were. In fact, most of the upscale restaurants we dined at during our trip were cheap by American standards. A dinner for two including wine, appetizers and desert was typically less than $100!

The next morning after breakfast, we were picked up in a private van for our drive to Colca Canyon. What is it with you Adventure Life People? Do you have a knack for connecting with nice people or are you just lucky? Our driver Miguel was great! He would serve as our private chauffer for the next three days. Although he didn’t speak much English, he had a great sense of humor (which by definition is anyone who will laugh at my jokes). He is adept at driving anywhere, especially along steep, winding dirt roads and along railroad tracks! The drive from Arequipa to Colca Canyon was one of the highlights of the trip. The road winds up the back side of Misty Volcano to what is known as the High Plateau. We climbed as high as 16500 feet before descending back to about 12000 feet at the Colca Lodge. Did you know Carlos is a “drug pusher” by American standards? Actually, coca leaves have been a staple part of Peruvian culture since before the Incas. Aside from being felt to hold spiritual powers, the coca leaf is used to stave off the effects of high altitude. We received an introductory course on how to prepare the leaves by wading them up around a piece of volcanic ash which serves as a catalyst to release the beneficial chemicals that prevent headaches and nausea associated with high altitude. The “wad” is placed between cheek and gum and as it moistens, you bite on it to squeeze out the juices. I must say that it did help with headaches but I tend to believe that the diamox that we took really worked as none of us had any problems during the trip. The High Plateau is a large expanse of arid land that is perfect grazing environment for the Llama. My wife became fascinated with Vincuna, a wild endangered species of Llama which is believed to have the finest wool of all the species of Llama. We were able to view herds of Vincuna from a distance, grazing at the foot of Misty Volcano. Llama herds are tended to just like they have been for centuries by the indigenous highlanders. At first glance, one might think, “what a poor people”. However, there is a grace and rhythm to their lives that we have long since forgotten. In fact , I believe that many of these people are much better off than the people that reside in the filthy squatter territories that surround the large cities like Arequipa. Highlanders migrate to the cities in search of employment and a better life only to find that they lack the education to compete. They often end up broke and eking out an existence with thousands of others in so-called “squatter towns” without electricity or running water. What little savings they had has long-since been spent and they are in a sense trapped. Don’t get me wrong---the life of a Highlander is hard, really hard. Carlos’ brother is a doctor and worked for a time in the Highlands. He discovered that the number one cause of death among children is hypothermia. The High Plateau is known for extremes in temperature. It is not unusual to see the temperature in the 70’s during the day and drop into the teens or below zero at night. Considering that most of the indigenous people live in stucco houses without electricity or windows, it is a wonder that they can survive at all. Peru has placed a priority on education. However, due to the vast distances, many children living in the Highlands struggle to travel to and from school. Our guide Carlos raised money and bought dozens of mountain bikes for the children of one school. The bikes cut the travel time to and from school by as much as three hours to about one hour in each direction. We reached a fork in the road which marks the cutoff for Colca Canyon. The other road leads to Puno. This has become a popular rest spot for tourists. The store sells so-called “Triple Tea” consisting of coca leaves and two other local plants. It is delicious and quite invigorating. Towering above are large sandstone cliffs that have interesting wind-carved spires protruding from them. After our short rest, we were off again and climbed over a 16500 foot pass before descending into the town of Chivay which is at the upper reaches of Colca Canyon. The Canyon is over twice as deep as the Grand Canyon at its deepest point. Chivay is a charming town with a lovely plaza. During lunch, a large crowd of people frolicked through the streets. It turned out to be a wedding. These people know how to party! In fact, we were told that the wedding party typically lasts for three days. The whole town participates and anyone who brings a wedding gift is welcome. As if to prove the point, we ran into the same people two days later still romping through the streets! After lunch, we rode the van down into the Canyon and spied the Colca Lodge on the other side of a river. All I can say is Wow! The lodge sits on the edge of the river responsible for carving the Colca Canyon over thousands of years and consists of a series of cozy stucco and thatched roof cabins spread throughout the property. Water from natural hot springs feeds a series of pools that are available to the guests. I highly recommend a soak in the pools with a glass of wine under the stars at night!

The next morning, we had a satisfying breakfast and then headed down into the Canyon. First stop, Cruz de Condor. These large endangered Andean scavengers have a wing span of ten feet and soar over the Canyon on the thermal updrafts. One particular spot attracts large numbers of birds as well as tourists in the early morning. What a spectacular sight! The birds appear to float above you, creating ideal opportunities for pictures. At one point, there appeared to be at least five large birds hovering overhead. This lasted about 45 minutes and then suddenly they disappeared. One thing I find that sets Adventure Life apart from other tour companies is their ability to venture “off the beaten path”, exploring places that the masses seem to overlook. We left the crowds of people behind and drove a short way down the road further into the Canyon. After pulling over, Carlos hopped out and announced that we were going on a short hike. We proceeded to walk along an irrigation channel lining the Canyon rim for about 1-2 miles, enjoying the spectacular scenery. Amazing terraces dating back approximately 1100 years or more, are visible all along the canyon walls. These create fertile areas for crops of potatoes, corn, barley, etc. In fact, many are still in use. Visiting in the dry season, we did not have a chance to see any green crops. Rather, the entire canyon radiated with a golden glow created by dry grass and plowed fields. Most of the farming is done by hand or with the aid of animals as there is no practical way for machinery to reach the remote fields perched on the steep canyon walls. By the time we had ventured back past the condor site, all the crowds had vanished along with their buses back to their hotels. That afternoon, we traveled back to Chivay for a delicious lunch consisting of a variety of local Peruvian dishes. More pork for Carlos! We had a chance to stroll around the town and paid a second visit to a local vendor who sells a deep-fried pastry smothered with honey—my daughter is a big fan!

The next day turned out to be our most physically taxing and I don’t know why, because all we did was ride in the van for several hours. Perhaps it was the up and down change in altitude as we again drove over the 16500 foot mountain pass. On the way, we pulled over and examined an area where hundreds of small potatoes were strewn over the ground. Carlos explained that the locals were freeze-drying them for storage. The technique involves allowing the potatoes to freeze at night and thaw during the day, allowing for the moisture to slowly evaporate. Stepping on them periodically to break open the skin helps speed up the several day process. The potatoes turn a pale white color when the they are finished. We again reached the fork in the highway and enjoyed more Triple Tea along with some favorite candies recommended by Carlos. Then, off to Puno. Flamingos in the Andes? You bet! We stopped along a large brackish lake and there were dozens of pale pink flamingos feeding. What a surprise to see what I thought was a bird that favored lower altitudes and warmer climates, strolling about at over 11000 feet. Later we drove through the city of Juliaca which we were told is one of the more prosperous cities in Peru. This is largely due to the thriving black market for goods smuggled in from Boliva as well as the booming counterfeit business. In fact, you can find just about any fake designer product here from purses to tennis shoes. We finally arrived in Puno, a bustling town on the shores of Lake Titicaca. Aside from tourism, Puno is known for its parties. Whether marking religious or historical events , all require serious celebration, often lasting for days at a time. Well, why not! By now, we had developed a serious craving for good old-fashioned pizza. Puno did not disappoint! After dinner, we crashed in the hotel and rested up for our day on Lake Titicaca.

To experience Lake Titicaca, one first needs to know about the Inca legend that states that the first Inca emperor arose out of the Lake and went to Cusco to establish the Inca capital which in about 100 years grew to be one of the largest empires the world has ever known. However, to really experience Lake Titicaca, one must be hustled out of bed at 530AM, scarf down breakfast and board a three-wheeled bicycle taxi for an exhilarating ride to the harbor! The cold, crisp air quickly wakes you up and you know you are in for something special. Most of the boats which transport tourists to and from the floating and dry islands of Lake Titicaca are “home-made”. In other words, they consist of a wooden hull and perhaps a salvaged bus engine. If you are in a hurry, this is not your preferred mode of transportation. The boats chug alone at a brisk 5 miles per hour. Perhaps this is why my pictures came out so clear. Before leaving, a cheerful musician played guitar and flutes. The floating islands that the tourists see are more or less in the business of tourism. The residents expect and rely on the daily visit of tourists to sustain themselves. They teach you a little about the construction of and life on the floating islands of reeds and then offer to sell you crafts. The women wear very colorful dresses and sing a greeting to all the boats that arrive. Don’t get me wrong though—this is a very unique experience. How often to you get a chance to experience a people whose culture is entirely sculpted by survival on a body of water that comprises the largest fresh water lake at such a high altitude? It is believed that these people adopted life on floating islands hundreds of years ago in order to escape skirmishes amongst the land dwelling tribes in the surrounding area. The indigenous inhabitants of both the floating and dry islands are warm and gracious. The women have a grace about them which is likely the culmination of centuries of surviving in such a harsh, unforgiving environment. While the women seem for the most part to be quite serious, the men always seem to be smiling. We met a young boy who looked to be about 2-3 years old. He immediately approached us and grabbed my daughter’s hand to show her around. Mother seemed unconcerned but at the same time, knew where he was at all times. Apparently, teaching the toddlers how to swim is a priority as they can and do fall in the water. We took a short ride in a boat constructed out of reeds and then left for the dry island of Taquile. Located several miles out in the Lake, Taquile is a relatively fertile, prosperous island whose inhabitants are master knitters. After leaving the boat, we hiked up a long pathway to the high point of the island and were promptly reminded of the fact that we were over 12000 feet above sea level. I consider myself relatively fit, but when a 60 year old man walked past me carrying two full propane tanks on his back, I decided I better work out a little bit more! Shortly thereafter, we reached a restaurant with a panoramic view of the lake and enjoyed fresh trout for lunch. During our lunch we learned more about the local culture, in particular about their rituals of courtship and marriage. Interestingly, it is preferred and expected that a couple live together for two years before getting married in order to see if they are compatible. Apparently, it is unheard of for anyone to get divorced. After a long day, we boarded our boat and chugged back to Puno. After a short rest at the hotel, we met Carlos for our last dinner together. What a great guide! I can’t tell you how grateful we are to have spent time with such a knowledgeable and genuinely nice person. Although, I know tour guiding is his profession, we will treasure the memories of the great experiences we had together. Thanks, Adventure Life!

The next morning after breakfast, we drove to the bus station and said goodbye to our good friend Carlos. A special bond is formed between a good guide in a far-away land and it is always sad to realize that you will likely never see each other again. We then boarded our first tour bus of the trip for our journey to Cusco. This marked the half point in our trip and the beginning or our travels through the Inca Heartland. As we caught our first glance at the Urabamba river, we were told about the importance of this sacred river and the key role it played in the growth of the Inca Empire as it spread from Cusco into the Sacred Valley. Not only did it hold religious significance but it also served as an important source of irrigation water for the rich farmland throughout the valley. The bus stopped at an overlook for pictures of spectacular mountain peaks covered with glaciers. The lighting was spectacular and golden fields of dry grass rolled into the tall mountains which took on a purple hue. During our next stop, we encountered our first Inca ruins at the famous site called Raqchi. We were able to walk through the grounds and first viewed the remains of a large temple. Everything I have read about Inca stone work is true. The large stones forming the base of the temple walls are perfectly carved and each stone fits together tightly with its neighbor like a jigsaw puzzle. One could sit for hours pondering how this could be accomplished with such primitive tools. Even more amazing were the rows of large circular grain storage facilities. This experience wet our appetites for things to come later in the week. All of the hotels where we stayed during our trip were fantastic. However, when planning our trip, I decided to mark the halfway point of our trip by upgrading our hotel in Cusco. We were to stay here a total of three nights and I thought it would be a nice treat for everyone. The Casa Cartagena is a beautiful boutique hotel in the heart of the historic district of Cusco. The rooms are luxurious and surround a lovely courtyard. The style of the hotel blends modern with traditional. The hotel is within walking distance of the main plaza as well as great shops and top restaurants. We had a chance to meet Santiago, our second guide for the trip who would accompany us into the Sacred Valley. He lives in Cusco and is extremely knowledgeable in all things Inca. Santiago outlined our plans for the next few days and recommended that we try a crazy restaurant within walking distance of the hotel called “The Fallen Angel”. He wouldn’t be specific but laughed and said we would find it interesting. He was right! The interior of the restaurant reminded me of the Salvador Dali museum in Spain. Our table consisted of an old porcelain bathtub which had been converted into a fish aquarium with a glass table top. Dangling from the ceiling were pudgy winged angels and pigs. Strange statues and bizarre paintings were everywhere. The food was wonderful.

This day definitely stood out as one of the highlights of the trip. Santiago and our driver picked us up at the hotel and we headed to the Sacred Valley. Although Cusco was considered the capital of the Inca Empire, the Sacred Valley was really its heart. The fertile soil grew the food that fuelled the expansion of the Empire. One key to the rapid growth of the Inca Empire was that the Inca did not prefer to conquer by force. Rather, they sent emissaries to different regions and offered protection in exchange for whatever the region had to offer. Cleverly, the local leaders of these various regions were often invited to Cusco where they remained. Thus the Inca insured complete control once the regional rulers had been removed. Once a region was under Inca rule, the best that the region had to offer became incorporated into the Inca culture. Thus, rapid growth was possible. Not only did the Sacred Valley serve as the bread basket for the Empire—it also served as the gateway to the Amazon, the source of exotic fruits, animals and the all-important coca leaf. First on our stops was beautiful Pisac. We drove up a steep, winding dirt road, got out and then began a pleasant hike to a temple overlooking the valley below. My fear of heights periodically kicked in as we meandered around a steep mountainside. Of course, my kids, knowing of my phobia, got as much enjoyment watching me hug the inner rock wall as they did from gazing at the scenery! Inca structures are visible everywhere. There are terraces, guard houses and food storage facilities as well as living quarters. Again, the stone work is amazing. As I explored the sun temple I became aware of a theme that persisted during our exploration of other Inca ruins—the close connection to and harmony with nature. This temple, like others we would see later, seems to emerge out of and around natural rock already present on the mountainside. A natural spring emerges from the ground and water courses through the temple which in turn is oriented to catch the rays of the sun through windows at particular times of the year. Amazing! As we left Pisac, we passed a local gentleman playing a hand-made flute. The beautiful high-pitched sound resonated down into the valley. I bought my son one after he promised to learn how to play it. My experience with most cash transitions throughout Peru is that no one has change. In this particular instance, I suspect this was a clever way to coax me into buying a music CD. However, I’m glad I did because the music is wonderful and worked great with my slide show! Next, we drove up onto the plateau above the Sacred Valley and then down a dusty road to a cliff overlooking the Maras Salt Pans. I had not read anything about this before the trip and I have to say, we were blown away! Spanning the narrow valley hundreds of feet below us were thousands of white salt water pools. For hundreds of years the locals have been mining salt in this area. The pools are fed by a mineral-rich hot water spring. As the water evaporates in the pools, salt is harvested and carried by hand up a road leading out of the valley. As the generations pass, more and more salt pools are created as families divide up the property. There are now over 3000 pools! Late in the afternoon, we arrived at the Circular Terraces of Moray. What an incredible site! Carved out of a natural depression between several mountain sides are a series of circular terraces once used by the Inca to experiment with different crops to see how they would adapt to climate change. The view from above is stunning and walking to the bottom using the so-called "flying steps" of protruding stone was a blast! Completing the postcard-perfect picture was a group of people playing soccer at the bottom! I’ll never forget this day! We arrived in Ollantaytambo in the late afternoon and checked into El Sauce Hotel. Taking into consideration the location, general ambience and feel of the actual hotel and town , this was hands-down my wife’s and my favorite hotel of the trip. There is a cozy sitting room with fireplace that is meticulously attended to by the doorman. Gazing out of the windows from the sitting room, one has an unobstructed view of the Inca ruins of Ollantaytambo. Also, I think that there is an intangible excitement in the air created by the variety of tourists passing through this town. Some are embarking on the Inca trail and some are taking the train to Aguas Calientas. All are anxious to fulfill their dream of visiting Machu Picchu.

The next morning we awoke early. The plan was to visit the ruins of Ollantaytambo before the crowds arrived and watch the sun rise over the mountain peaks. Kudos to Santiago! The morning air was brisk as we strolled towards the ruins from our Hotel. Funny—they looked much smaller from the sitting room! This site comprises a critical part in Inca history. Being the gateway to the Amazon, the Incas devoted significant resources in this area. There are large food storage depots visible along the sheer rock faces of the surrounding mountains. Inca guard structures are also spread throughout the area. There was also ample space devoted to housing of military and governmental officials as a visible symbol of power for any people venturing up from the Amazon basin. Finally, this site marks the last refuge of Manco Inca, the last Inca Emperor who staged a famous rebellion against the Spanish and then fled from Cusco. After being defeated here by the Spanish, he escaped with his followers deep into the Amazon where he lived in exile before finally being killed some years later. Huge stone terraces lead up to the sun temple on top of the mountain. It defies imagination to think how the Incas transported such large stones from a quarry way across the valley and then across the Urabamba river. Standing on top, it is easy to see how this site was an ideal spot for a last stand against the Spanish. As the sun peaked over a tall mountain peak, we made our way along a narrow trail and eventually back into town. After a nice breakfast at the hotel, we boarded small three-wheeled taxis that appeared to be crafted from old motorcycles. Our taxi had not traveled more than five feet before it broke down. No worry! Another one quickly pulled up. We hopped in and off we went. At the train station, we boarded a train operated by Perurail, a company owned by Orient Express. We then descended further down the now narrow valley through an ecological transition zone. The Urabamba River which was nothing more than a babbling brook a few days ago was now a raging body of water. Just a few months earlier, record rainfall resulted in the river swelling to a torrent that washed out parts of the railway as well as the Inca Trail. Thousands of tourists were stranded in Aguas Calientas and had to be flown out by helicopters. Visible evidence of water’s destructive forces can be seen throughout the valley in the form of landslides. We soon left the dry arid terrain behind and found ourselves in the midst of a cloud forest. It was nice to see lush green foliage for a change in contrast to what we had experienced for the last week. We arrived in Aguas Calientas and checked into the El Mapi Hotel. Aguas Calientas is the quintessential tourist town. It serves as a base camp for the dozens of buses ferrying tourists up and down the muddy road that leads to Machu Picchu and it also serves as the return point for tired hikers finishing the Inca Trail and in need of a soft bed, tasty meal and a hot shower. Restaurant upon restaurant as well as all manner of souvenir shops squeeze into spots along the narrow pedestrian streets. At some point in time, it was discovered that pizza sells. Every one of the dozens of restaurants has a pizza oven. Despite its tourist overtones, the town has a certain charm. There is a nice court yard with a charming church and fountain. The Urabamba River winds along the border and it is pleasant to stroll down the road to a museum which houses artifacts from Machu Picchu. I was surprised to discover that many of these artifacts were discovered within the last 10-15 years. Just recently, a gold bracelet was discovered at the base of a tree.

Santiago has visited Machu Picchu many times and knows the best time to arrive. This is before the first train of the day arrives from Ollantaytambo. We boarded our bus and headed up the mountain! As we climbed and climbed, it was easy to imagine how the Spanish failed to discover Machu Picchu during their travels up and down along the Urabamba River far below. The site is perched over 7000 feet high on a mountain peak and dense vegetation hides it from view. In the early 1900’s the site was not as much rediscovered as it was made famous by Hiram Bingham, an explorer who was actually looking for the hidden city of the Incas. In fact, local farmers were using part of Machu Picchu to grow food at the time. No one knows for sure what Machu Picchu was used for. Was it a royal vacation retreat or was it predominately a religious site? Furthermore, when and why was the site abandoned? These questions will likely never be answered. However, what is known for sure is that this is one awe-inspiring creation! As we entered Machu Picchu, we had a chance to take the famous “post card picture” thanks to Santiago. He led us through the various archeological sites and served as our walking encyclopedia. There wasn’t one question that he did not have an answer for. He seemed very conscious of our limited time and wanted to make sure we got the most out of our visit. We had a chance to hike a trail to an ancient drawbridge. This really tested my fear of heights as the drop-off at some points was close to 2000 feet straight down. In fact, the trail is closed at the draw bridge because it becomes too dangerous as it is literally carved into the side of a sheer rock face thousands of feet up. We made our way back to the main site and had plenty of time to take great photos. Thank God for digital cameras! My daughter had a chance to soak up some energy by holding her hands over the Inca sun dial. Unfortunately, part of the rock was chipped away a few years ago during the filming of a Cuzcuena beer commercial when the camera crane came crashing down. I wonder what the punishment would have been back in the time of the Incas! After Santiago was satisfied we had seen as much as we could, we had our passports stamped and boarded the bus for our return to Aguas Calientas. We ate a quick lunch and left on the train back to Ollantaytambo. We then met our driver and headed back to Cusco. During our trip back, we had a chance to learn more about Santiago. He has visited the United States twice while participating in an English language program. During that time, he worked on a ski resort in Colorado. As he described his experiences, I could tell they represent some of the highlights of his life. My son, Patrick did not feel well all day and after returning to Cusco and checking into the Casa Cartagena, he developed chills and a fever as well as gastroenteritis. That night, we let him rest at the hotel with ample fluids and the three of us went out to dinner at the Monastery Hotel. This is a beautiful luxury hotel just down the street from where we were staying. It exists within the walls of an old monastery and still retains much of the old Spanish charm. The restaurant sits along a courtyard with beautiful gardens. The food was incredible!

Today was our first and only full day in Cusco. We planned to see some Inca sites in the morning and then explore the city in the afternoon. My son Patrick was still ill with gastroenteritis and decided to rest at the hotel. Time to break out the Cipro. We drove to a hillside overlooking the entire city and explored the famous complex of Saqsayhuaman. I was anxious to visit this site as I had read about the several day battle that took place here during the Inca rebellion. The ruins are massive and consist of a large fort with huge walls in a zig zag pattern as well as several temples, an amphitheatre and other governmental and religious sites. In my opinion, some of the best examples of fine Inca stone work are located here. Huge blocks of many shapes and weighing tons each, fit perfectly together. It is fascinating to see how curved blocks were used in the corners. Some of the larger stones measure an estimated ten by fifteen feet. The walls were constructed to allow for easy defense from above and the Inca took full advantage of this. Unfortunately, defense without an offence is eventually doomed to failure. The Spanish had several advantages over the Inca, including the horse, strong armor, weapons and finally strategy. Leather shields, clubs and soldiers on foot were eventually no match for armored soldiers on horseback with steel swords and guns. Furthermore, prior to the Spanish invasion, the Inca had never seen horses. Although the Spanish were greatly outnumbered, their patience and persistence paid off, aided by the fact that they cut off the water supply. Last but not least, the social structure of Inca society contributed greatly to its downfall. Most Inca “warriors” were merely farmers who were required to spend a specific amount of time per year serving the Empire. This generally fit in between crop planting and harvesting. In the end, many Inca soldiers were forced to abandon their posts to return to their farms so as not to lose their crops. This forced an eventual retreat of Manco Inca into the Amazon region. Driving home the theme of harmony with nature and a mythological view of the world, we visited three temples-- the first devoted to worship of the sun, the second devoted to the underworld and the third devoted to water. In the afternoon, we strolled through the old section of Cusco and Santiago pointed out his old highschool. Beautiful churches and other colonial buildings surround several large plazas. One can see how many of the buildings still use the old Inca walls in their foundations. Overall, Cusco is a very pleasant city with an European feel. We visited the Market and were again amazed at the amount and variety of fresh fruit, vegetables, and grains. Although I would have no problem buying fruit or vegetables here, I think I would avoid the meat products. Refrigeration is not available and according to Santiago, the unsold products are transported home and then returned to the Market the next day. Being are last day in Cusco, we took some time to stock up on tourist goodies. My daughter wanted a Peruvian soccer jersey. Although Peruvians love soccer, their national team struggled this year. In fact the mere mention of the team’s name usually elicited some chuckles from the locals. After a long, satisfying day, we sat at a sidewalk café and enjoyed some refreshments and watched the people hurry home from work. Throughout the trip, my children had been urging me to get my shoes shined by one of the many children working the plazas. I finally relented as my shoes were quite dirty form all our hiking. A cute boy of about nine years old vigorously cleaned and shined my shoes. With Santiago as interpreter, we had agreed upon a price of 2 soles. However, he did a great job and I gave him a 10 sole bill. He beamed from ear to ear and hurried off to tell his friends. We walked back to the main plaza and said our farewells to Santiago, another great guide. We exchanged email addresses as I might be interested in booking a mountain biking trip with him next year. For our last night in Cusco, my wife and I decided to treat ourselves to a dinner at Map Café. This is considered to be one of the top restaurants in the city and it delivered! The location is unusual in that it sits inside a rectangular glass structure within a museum courtyard. The quality of the food rivals that of any of the best restaurants in Los Angeles. The atmosphere and service were wonderful. Even more startling was the discovery that the meal which consisted of two appetizers, two entrees, a half bottle of wine and desert was approximately 65 US dollars! What a great way to spend our last night in Cusco!

We said goodbye to Cusco and boarded our flight back to Lima. Weather-wise, not much had changed since we left two weeks ago. The sky was still overcast and the temperature was in the mid-sixty’s. This time, we checked into the Ramada Inn located directly across the street from the airport as we were to leave for Los Angeles the next morning.

The next morning, we had a nice breakfast at the hotel. The dining room was buzzing with what appeared to be a fresh group of tourists anxious to embark on their journeys through Peru. It was frustrating to find out that although we purchased our tickets six months in advance and arrived at the airport two and a half hours ahead for check in, the flight had been overbooked! Instead of flying home via El Salvador, we were booked on a flight to Costa Rica which connected to another flight to El Salvador which finally connected with a flight back to Los Angeles. This increased our travel time by about 5 hours. The only good thing that came out of this was that we flew first class to Costa Rica. While in the duty free shops in Lima, my wife bought a large package of coca tea which she planned to give to a friend of hers. While passing through customs in Los Angeles, we discovered that coca products are strictly forbidden in the United States. Although I was made to feel like a drug mule, I had to believe that the customs officers see this all the time as the product is sold in all the duty free shops. The “contraband” was confiscated and we were given a stern warning. Come on guys! Its only tea! As we resume our busy lives back in Los Angeles, we are still digesting all of the wonderful experiences we had on our trip. Peru is a wonderful country with a rich heritage. The people are friendly and the food is fabulous. The geography is harsh yet awe inspiring. Once again, Adventure Life has delivered!