Our Adventures in Peru

. The long-awaited Panoramic Peru trip started with our noon departure flight on United Airlines from Reagan International Airport in Washington DC with a connecting flight in Houston, Texas. Careful packing allowed for carry-on luggage, thus ensuring bags arriving with us. Flights were uneventful and we arrived in Lima at 11 pm. A local driver from Adventure Life accomplished the transfer from airport to hotel. Although nighttime, we were able to observe the beauty of the region as we left the city of Lima and rode along a stretch of the Pacific Ocean toward our hotel. The coastal area featured wide beaches, recreation facilities and bike paths, with the city perched high above on sheer cliffs. Upon arrival at the San Agustin Hotel, which was located in Miraflores, a suburb of Lima, the first of many pisco sours was enjoyed followed by a shower and welcome bed. We stayed in 9 different hotels during our travels and all were comfortable. A buffet style breakfast consisting of coffee, tea, juices, eggs, pancakes, cereal, yogurt, ham, cheese, a variety of bread and rolls, and fresh fruit was served at all hotels. Lunches were usually eaten mid-afternoon and often times were elaborate buffets of local food, including beef, alpaca, guinea pig, chicken, potatoes, quinoa, soups, breads, fresh fruit, and several types of flan or mousse. A relaxing dinner and drinks usually occurred near 8 pm in a restaurant of our choice. The commercial bus line Cruz del Sur provided transportation for longer trips, while shorter trips were by a comfortable 11-passenger Mercedes Benz luxury van. A Passport and Immigrant Card were required at every hotel check-in, as well as at every transportation center.

. Following a 7:30 am breakfast, Dick and I made a quick trip to the ATM and then walked approximately seven blocks to the coast. The streets were very busy with cars and pedestrians. Although we did not observe stop signs or lane markers, it was amazing to see the autos merging and crossing intersections without incident. Car horns warned of approaching vehicles and it was apparent that autos had the right of way. Numerous luxury hotels, shops, and businesses lined the cliffs overlooking the ocean. Cliffs were covered with flowers and shrubs and the drop-off was dramatic. Skies were overcast with a temperature of 70 degrees. The official tour started at 12:30 pm with the arrival of Carlos Lazo, our guide from Adventure Life who was to be with us for the next 10 days. Carlos, a resident of Arequipa, proved to be well organized and a fountain of knowledge regarding past and present history of Peru, culture, birds, fauna, flora and public policy. At 1:30 pm we boarded the Cruz Del Sur bus for the 4-hour drive down the Pan American Highway to Paracas. The commercial bus had 2-levels with the lower level containing 12 large reclining seats. The provision of food and beverages, pillows, blankets and television ensured a pleasant trip. South of Lima, the Pacific Ocean provided a sharp contrast to the squatter villages populating the arid hilly terrain to the east. Further south, the sky turned blue as we entered the agricultural area. Irrigated fields producing cotton, corn, potatoes, onions, avocados, and asparagus as well as a variety of grains were visible. Fishing and agriculture are the most important sources of livelihood although tourism is now growing. The area is also susceptible to earthquakes and tsunamis, the latest being a 7.9 quake in 2007. We arrived at the La Hacienda Hotel at 6 pm. Unfortunately, we missed sunset over the bay with sunset occurring at 5:50 pm. Located on the Bay of Paracas, La Hacienda was a modern, beautiful resort featuring the elements of the Peruvian desert – wood from the huarango tree, stone, and clay. Flowering bougainvilleas surrounded the pool that appeared to flow into the bay. Following a late dinner featuring fresh seafood with Carlos, Sarah and Christopher, we walked around the grounds prior to returning to our room at 11 pm.

. LAKE TITICACA According the local Andean legend, Lake Titicaca was the birthplace of civilization and has long been considered a sacred place among indigenous Andean people who believe powerful spirits live in its depths. It is South America's largest lake and the world's highest navigable body of water. Its deep azure waters seem to stretch forever across the altiplano. The lake has been inhabited for thousand of years with reed boats crossing the lake as early as 2500 B.C. The lake straddles the modern border between Peru and Bolivia. Following an early breakfast in our hotel, we met our group at 7:45 am and departed for the harbor. The boat carrying approximately 30 passengers and 10 life preservers and maintaining a speed of only three miles per hour, featured indoor covered seating as well as eight seats on the open roof. UROS FLOATING ISLANDS Currently, there are 45 floating islands located about three miles from Puno in the Bay of Puno. The Uros Indians of Lake Titicaca made these islands by hand from totora reeds that grow in abundance in the shallow water of the lake. It is believed the Uros Indians created and inhabited the islands upon the arrival of the Spaniards. The islands first came in contact with the world in the 1960's and now they live mostly off tourism. Our first stop was the Uros Floating Islands. According to our local guide, each island was inhabited by an extended family of approximately 5-6 households units. The island was constructed by reed blocks, including the roots, which were tied together and anchored in the shallow waters with eucalyptus poles. Each year additional reeds were layered on top. Walking on the reeds invoked a soft spongy sensation. If a family had major disagreements with other family units, their hut would be cut off the island and set afloat. Huts were made of reed, and children slept in a small hut next to their parents. School age children attended classes in Puno. Several huts had television sets. Following a demonstration and tour, women immediately brought out their wares to sell, followed by a welcome song sung in four different languages. We purchased a small wall hanging featuring the symbols of the island. The staged commercial aspect was overwhelming and was a huge distraction from an otherwise interesting visit. AMANTANI ISLAND Located twenty-two miles northeast of Puno, the circular island is a beautiful but barren and rocky place with about 10 villages composed of about 800 families of farmers, fishers and weavers. Ancient ruins clinging to the island's two peaks, Pachatata and Pachamama (Father and Mother Earth). Ancient looking stonewalls mark the fields and terraces of different communities while cows, sheep and alpacas graze the hillsides. We then headed further out to our destination of Amantani Island that is located approximately 22 miles northeast of Puno, well outside of the bay. Thank goodness the weather and scenery were beautiful as the trip took about 4 hours. We sat on the top outdoor deck for most of the trip. The only rough water occurred as we exited the bay and moved into the open waters of the lake. Viewed from the lake, Amantani Island was picturesque with its shoreline of red cliffs, sheep grazing on hillsides, and stone fences separating small gardening plots. Families were busy completing the harvest. The women of the families that were expecting to host the tourists for the night were at the small harbor to welcome our arrival. Olga, our host 'momma' led us up a very steep pathway to her home. Again, the altitude of approximately 12,500 feet had a huge impact on my performance, as I had to rest every minute or so during our climb. However, Dick managed the climb surprisingly well. We later learned that our host family lived at the highest elevation in the community. Carlos was assigned to also stay with our host family, which was fortunate for the purpose of translation. We arrived at our home for the night at 2 pm. Olga served a tasty lunch of soup with quinoa, potatoes, and other small vegetables. The main course included 3 types of fresh boiled potatoes, sliced fried cow's cheese, and fresh sliced tomatoes and cucumbers. Following lunch, Olga showed us the many traditional hats she had knit. We purchased a brown and white hat for William, and we then gave her the bags of pasta and oil we previously purchased in Puno. Dick and I walked around the outside of the small home and admired the sunflowers, geraniums, snapdragons and many other varieties of plants I could not name. The family had completed the harvest of wheat, quinoa, corn, potatoes and fava beans. A small pen contained sheep and lambs. Powered by solar energy, the home was a small adobe hut with a small inner courtyard. Dirt floors and three rooms serving as family living quarters: kitchen cooking area with fireplace, eating area, and sleeping area. Host families were required to maintain separate sleeping quarters for tourists. Thus our room was an upper level attachment reached by a set of steep, rickety stairs. The room was large with linoleum flooring, two windows, one overlooking the lake, and single beds with many blankets. Two small chamber pots, one pink and one blue, were in the room. Located next to the house was a small outhouse containing a non-flush toilet and sink. At 3:30 we started the steep climb to the temple of Patchamama, Father Earth, which was located at the top of the highest point on the island. We rested at a large outdoor soccer stadium before completing the hour-long trek. Again the path was narrow, strewn with rocks and very steep. The temple was enclosed by a stonewall and locked gate, that was only opened once per year during the Festival of the Sun to pray for a bountiful harvest. Sunset over the Bolivian Andes was a spectacular blaze of oranges and purples as storm clouds were gathering on the horizon. As we neared our home for the night, it started to rain. I rested a short time prior to dinner while Dick sat in the dining area with Carlos and the father, who was a fisherman. The couple had two children, Nicole and Erica, ages 4 and 15. Carlos suggested to Olga that she prepare a light meal as our appetites were small (and to not waste food) so she served rice and fried potatoes. At 8 pm, Olga dressed us in traditional clothing in preparation for the celebration and dance at the community center. I wore three layers of skirts, a wide embroidered belt over an embroidered blouse, and a long black shawl covering my head. Dick wore a heavy woven poncho and traditional Peruvian knit hat. Flashlights were used to guide us down the rocky path to the center where a 3-piece musical group played while the villagers and tourists exerted themselves on the dance floor. With the heavy clothing and high altitude, two long dances had us looking for the sidelines. Returning to the house near 9:30 pm, we were treated to the rising of a full golden moon casting shadows over the hills and reflecting on the lake. Temperatures dropped to the low 30's during the early morning hours and the wind whistled through our room.

. With the sun rising over the Bolivian Andes and peering through our window at 6 am, we rose in order to prepare for our departure. Following breakfast of rolls, fried cake and tea, and with many hugs and gracias to the family, Olga again led us down to the harbor. TAQUILE ISLAND About 22 miles east of Puno, this small island is stunningly beautiful. Only 1/2 mile wide and 3 1/2 miles long, it rises to a high point of 866 feet above the lake. The rugged ruddy color of the land contrasted with the blue sky and lake, and its hillsides were dotted with Inca stone agricultural terraces and other stone ruins. Known for retaining its traditional customs, the 3,000 inhabitants go about their daily lives without electricity or vehicles. Taquile textiles are some of the finest in Peru. The boat trip to Taquile Island took about 2 hours. The sky was blue and the waters were calm. Approaching the island, we realized the climb to the plaza would be daunting as we could see the stone-paved path was steep and long. Beautiful views offered numerous photo opportunities and much needed rest breaks. The island's main plaza featured a small church, several small food shops, and a textile cooperative featuring locally made woven hats, sweaters, shawls, and blankets. The men were the knitters in the community and could be seen knitting as they hurried across the plaza. The plaza was rather unattractive compared to plazas in other villages as it was void of plants, benches, or fountains. A brightly painted green and yellow school and small stucco homes with a variety of beautiful flowers were located on paths leading from the plaza. Following a brief talk by our local tour guide, we again walked up a narrow steep path for lunch served outdoors on a lovely patio overlooking the bay. With fresh fish as the main course, we enjoyed grilled trout served with fried potatoes and rice. Inca Cola and Coke were popular beverages. The walk to the boat now on the other side of the island entailed a steep flight of over 550 rock steps descending to the coast. Although the boat rides were long, the time was enjoyable and passed quickly as we conversed with other tourists from New Zealand, France, and the Netherlands, who shared their travel adventures, including a New Zealander who attends the EAA exhibit in Oshkosh. Some of the travelers completed missionary work or were students. Returning to the hotel near 4 pm, we needed to say good-bye to Carlos for as planned, he was returning to Arequipa. Again, Dick and I rested prior to heading out to dinner. We again walked to the pedestrian mall and ate at Colors, a small and inviting restaurant. I don't recall what we ate, but the piscos sours were great. Following dinner we walked for a short while prior to returning to our hotel and watching CNN.

. The plan for today was an 8-hour bus ride to Cusco featuring numerous stops along the way. Adventure Life again handled our transfer from hotel to bus terminal. We departed the hotel at 6:30 for 7 am departure on the Inka Express. This time we sat at the back of the bus with 5 seats across, the middle occupied by a young student named Sara who was traveling alone but meeting a friend in Cusco. We noted that the buses appeared to be 'open drug markets', as for whatever ailment a tourist described, another tourist would be quick to offer a pill, which was usually happily accepted! First Stop: Pukara, a small village located on the pampas, was a small dusty village featuring a large Jesuit church built in the 1600's, small museum featuring pottery, textiles, and a mummy. Second Stop: Les Desea/Feliz Viaje (the highest pass at 14,250). Approaching the pass, large herds of cattle were grazing in the grass-covered valleys. Numerous small villages, several with indoor soccer stadiums, were scattered along the paved highway. Pulling off the road, we were able to view the jagged peaks of the snow-capped Andean mountains. With low hanging clouds, it was noticeably cooler and windy. Third Stop: In the larger village of Solaris located at 11,515 feet, we stopped for lunch at a local outdoor restaurant that appeared to be a popular tourist stop. Shaded by umbrellas, large tables were setup in a garden setting. Musicians played the traditional pipe music, along with the ubiquitous Simon and Garfunkel songs, while we indulged on a wide variety of fruit, vegetables, meats and desserts served buffet style. Fourth Stop: The ruins of Raqchi near the small village of San Pedro, looked like a large aqueduct from the road. These ruins are the remains of the Temple of Viracocha, one of the holiest shrines in the Inca Empire. Twenty-two columns made of stone blocks helped support the largest-known Inca roof. Although the Spaniards destroyed most of the structures, the original foundations remain. Numerous remains of houses for nobility and storage buildings were also visible. Large agricultural areas surrounded the ruins. Leaving the ruins at 2 pm, and continuing our gradual descent, the landscape gradually changed to wide lush agricultural valleys. Cattle and sheep were grazing while the farmers harvested wheat, corn, potatoes and beans. The Urubamba River (Sacred River) flowed through the valley. Gradually the valley narrowed and we began a step climb through hills covered with the bluish green foliage of the eucalyptus trees. Fifth Stop: The small village of Anyahuaylillas is famous for its lavishly decorated Church that is beautiful with its baroque embellishments of ornate carving and silver and gold. The church was built in the 1600's on top of the Inca temple with indigenous workers painting the murals. During the 1700's when the Dominicans forced the Jesuits to leave, the Dominicans covered the murals with large painted canvases. The church features a large famous canvas of the Immaculate Conception, as well as the two canvases named the Stairway to Heaven and the Stairway to Hell. It is said that local villagers take turns guarding the treasures of gold and silver hidden within the church 24 hours a day. At 5 pm we arrived at the bus station in Cusco where Teddy Romano, our new tour guide from Adventure Life, welcomed and escorted us to our hotel, the Casa Andina Koricancha. After showering and a brief rest, we walked to the center of Cusco and its beautiful Plaza de Armas. Deciding upon dinner at the Inka Grill that overlooked the Plaza, we enjoyed pisco sours and cerveza with our meal. I ate beef in elderberry wine sauce with potato strata and asparagus, while Dick ate Lomo Saltado. After exploring the plaza and surrounding streets, we walked back to the hotel at 10:15 pm. CUSCO Cradled by the southeastern Andean Mountains, Cusco lies at over 11,000 feet above sea level. The city maintains the look and feel of an Andean capital with its blend of pre-Columbian and colonial history as well as its contemporary mestizo culture. Not only being the Inca empire's holy city, it was also the epicenter of the Inca network of roads connecting all points in its empire. After an epic battle at Sacsayhuaman, the Spaniards razed most Inca buildings often rebuilding upon the original foundations. After a devastating earthquake in 1650, it became largely a baroque city with its colonial era and Renaissance churches and mansions. PLAZA DE ARMAS The focal point of life in Cusco is the Plaza de Armas that is located in the center of the old city. Anchored by its large central fountain, the plaza is filled with benches, trees, flowers, peddlers selling their wares, tourists and locals. Porticoes lining the sidewalks surrounding the plaza are filled with shops and restaurants featuring carved wooden balconies. La Cathedral and the large Jesuit church are also located on the Plaza.