Family Trip to Galapagos and Ecuador

Due to limited availability for our frequent flyer mile tickets, we had to book first class (poor us!) for the first time ever. My mom and I were thrilled with the real dinnerware, table cloths and excellent food- such a treat! We were preparing my kids, Hailey and Matthew, to be impressed and letting them know how lucky they were. My 5 year old son, always the pragmatist, summed up his thoughts after the flight when he pouted, "Where's the treat part? This is just dinner!" My mom and I spewed wine, we were laughing so hard! Betty, our friend in Quito, picked us up from the airport and took us directly to her home for lasagna. My kids, became instant friends with her 7 and 12 year old. Her 7 year old, Matteo, was worried about the language barrier but later told his mom it was no big deal. He told her that he could say "Play? Toys?" and that was all he needed!

We woke early for the bumpy transfer to our canopy tour near Cotopaxi National Park. We opted for the 5 cable zipline that required a bit of extra hiking. Mom struggled on the walk at such high elevation, but we stopped along the way and snacked on blueberries. Jorge, our guide, told us that they make a special soup of the blueberries to eat with doll shaped bread on the Day of the Dead. Thankfully, we made it to the zipline just in time to beat the rain as they can't run the cables if it gets too wet. I was so proud of my mom for powering up the hill. Jorge rode tandem with her and everyone had a great time! Five year old Matthew was so light that he briefly got stuck in the middle of one cable, dangling high over the river. However, he wasn't worried in the slightest and just waited patiently for the guide to come out to him. We headed on to Hacienda Porvenir for lunch. It has rained a bit in the interim and was too muddy to enjoy much of a walk that afternoon so Jorge suggested that we go to the kitchen where we could make the special bread of the Day of the Dead celebrations. The kids charmed the kitchen staff by using the colors to make all kinds of animals and dolls that they cooked for us and served with our dinner.

We met our horseback riding guide and got fitted in chaps and ponchos for the ride. I was worried about Matthew riding by himself, but he did great despite my hesitancy (and his own). The guide led Matthew's horse and Hailey gamely took hers by the reins without help. We headed straight up the hill for a stunning view over the hacienda. After the ride, we relaxed at the hacienda and then headed back to Quito. There we met Betty so that we could take all the kids to a movie together at the mall. We couldn't find anything kid-friendly to watch but they had the most amazing drop off daycare there. The kids entered through a tunnel (like a rabbit hole out of Alice in Wonderland) into a private world of trampolines, games, and even a full beauty salon. Hailey came out an hour later with a full head of ringlets, make up and a jewel attached to her forehead. If only our daycare here was so much fun!

This morning we drove to Otavalo Market, stopping enroute to taste chirrimoya, a local fruit that is supposed to help stomach cancer, and cheese and biscuits. We also stopped at the Equator where Matthew tried unsuccessfully to balance an egg and accidentally broke it! At the market, mom got busy buying all kinds of gifts for friends and family back home - tablecloths, clothes, keychains, scarves, etc. There was not nearly enough time to see it all. It was a feast for the senses with frantic bartering and stalls and stalls of colorful fabrics stretching along aisle after aisle. After the market, we had a plentiful lunch of Carne Colorado, potato soup, rolls, cheese, salad, roasted corn and Tres Leche cake at Hacienda Pinsaqui. We explored the beautiful grounds of the hacienda and it was there that Matthew discovered a love for taking pictures that carried him through the rest of the trip. He took at least 100 photos of his newly purchased treasures, Power Rangers from the Otavalo Market. From there, we drove to the Magdalena community where we stayed in the home of an indigenous family. We expected rustic accommodations, but the homes are lovely with hot water showers, fireplaces, and electricity thanks to a partnership grant with an Ecuadorian tour company. Our dinner, prepared by the family, was also excellent- tilapia, french fries, peas and cinnamon covered fruit. If not for the kids, my one regret would be that the set up is not particularly conducive to a lot of interaction with the family who lives in the basement of the home and only comes upstairs to prepare meals. However, the kids acted as ambassadors and opened up communication that otherwise might have been awkward. Matthew spent the evening playing with their 5 year old daughter. They giggled as they took turns playing "hide the Power Ranger" and Matthew tried out his new photography skills to take pictures of her. Late that evening, she laid her head on his shoulder as he showed her the pictures he had taken on the digital camera. Her father came up to say good night to us and welcomed us with a big hug and smile. He was so genuinely happy to have us there. I only hope that our visit allows them to maintain their traditional lifestyle without influencing them to change by our presence.

We divided into groups this morning for horseback riding, hiking and biking. Both kids wanted to go horseback riding again, but mom opted out since there were limited horses. Matthew rode with me on our short trip up the mountain for a view over the community. After the ride, we started back to Quito, stopping along the way for lunch at a traditional Indian restaurant. They had a clay oven for baking and long tables with benches running along. The guinea pigs (later served to adventurous eaters) ran outside and charmed the kids as we entered. Appetizers consisted of fava beans, potatoes, and roasted corn followed by potato soup. Then we had chicken, carrots, and the ubiquitous cheese and avocado of the area. I couldn't eat much after the roasted guinea pig was brought in for everyone to try. Fortunately, they didn't hold to their threat that anyone who didn't try it wouldn't be allowed to get on the Galapagos flight as our family would have all been stuck in Quito! After lunch, we walked to the home of a famous Andean musician who showed us a range of instruments from Bolivia, Peru and Ecuador. We headed back to Quito and ordered pizza for dinner.

I must say that I am very impressed by Aerogal. Our coach seats rivaled the first class of American. We were served two beverages, a snack and a light meal and were given headphones for private video screens, We arrived relaxed to Baltra airport where we were met by our Legend guide and escorted to the port. There we saw our first Galapagos wildlife- Sally Lightfoot crabs and sea lions! Once aboard the Legend, my kids immediately tried out the pool and hot tub before our plentiful buffet lunch. We had a safety briefing and Matthew fell asleep sitting upright after the busy activities we'd had so far. This afternoon we traveled to North Seymour for our first island excursion. The kids loved the hike and were rewarded with our first iguana sightings as well as frigate birds and blue footed boobies!

So said my son as he sat at the edge of the Legend pool with a bowl of popcorn after our morning walk around Dragon Hill. The comment was all the more impressive because Dragon Hill was the least exciting of our land visits with a steep uphill walk and less wildlife than most islands.

We were back on the ship by 9 for the long voyage to Floreana. The kids loved the pool and played straight through until lunch. In the late afternoon, we arrived at Cormorant Point to see the stunning flamingos of the lagoon and go snorkeling. The kids splashed endlessly in the surf and I was thrilled to see a group of 30 golden rays swimming past me as I snorkeled- wow!

Back on the ship, they had an amazing poolside BBQ with huge prawns, chicken, beef, chorizo, hot dogs, and blood sausage as well as a plentiful buffet of vegetarian fare. Mom and I sipped wine poolside as we watched the kids frolic in the water.

So said my daughter while eating chocolate fondue after our morning excursion to Espanola. This excursion was the best yet- lots of sea lions, iguanas, lava lizards, albatros, masked boobies, finches, and blue-footed boobies. I particularly loved watching the albatros courtship ritual that consisted of rapid beaks clicking together (kissing) and lots of male strutting (not unlike humans really!).

Back onboard, the kids fit in another swim and nap before the afternoon excursion. The drive to the Galapaguera on San Cristobal was long, but it was a worthwhile visit as it was the only opportunity to see the land tortoises on our short itinerary. We learned about the breeding program there and then headed into town for some brief shopping and a chance to call home.

The kids loved all the sea lions along the beachfront, particularly the ones who ignored the signs and snuggled up in the playground slide.

We had a panga ride to see the fur sea lions along the craggy rocks and then took a final dip in the pool before heading to the airport. This evening we rode in a restored chiva, a 50s wooden bus and had a nice dinner at Patio Andaluz, a beautiful colonial hotel in downtown Quito.

We had the good foresight to leave a final day for unplanned, kid-friendly activities in Quito. We spent the day with Betty and her kids visiting the Museo del Agua and taking them on rides at the amusement center called Volcan Park located at the top of one of the volcanoes that rim the city of Quito. Afterwards, we headed back to her home for a BBQ and a swim in their nice outdoor pool. We were all sad to say goodbye to their loving family and call an end to this amazing family trip!

A long journey home...