We took what Sebastian optimistically called a “45-minute walk” to Tortuga Beach. It was very hot, and the sun was brutal, but when we got to the beach, we were struck speechless. It was a vast expanse of white powder sand interrupted only by two marine iguanas that seemed to be having a hard time learning to surf. It was amazing. Farther down the beach, we came to a protected mangrove cove, where we snorkeled with baby sharks. It’s hard to think of this sort of thing as normal, but the amazing had become the expected by that point.