Darwin Country

Arriving at the airport in Miami always gives me pause. All those people going someplace! This time, I was one of the lucky ones. The flight was uneventful and I arrived in Quito earlier than expected. Quite a coup in this day and age! As I traveled by cab to the hotel, I couldn't help watching this huge city on the north side of the Pichincha Volcano. Arriving at the hotel, I noticed immediately that the staff was friendly and very accommodating. The Hotel Eugenia is a delightful oasis near the Mariscal quarter. It has inner courtyards and my room is away from the hustle and bustle of the city noises. It has a view of the interior courtyard and it is very appealing. At the hotel's quiet cafe I had my traditional glass of wine with dinner. The people of Ecuador are so friendly and it is a wonderful place to stay! I will be going to the Otavalo Market tomorrow driving through the Andes, as well as other small towns, about two hours out of town, to see the wares of the natives. It is a bit cool here, about 62 F, but it is a nice change from the heat of Miami. I have been speaking Spanish and at least people understand me! Buenas noches for now.

Today began with a small breakfast of fruit and toast in the hotel's cafe. They had arranged for a bus to pick me up a couple of blocks away to go on my sojourn. From the moment I walked outside into the fresh air until I returned, I was in awe of the city, the countryside and the people. First I went to Calderon, a town where women artisans make dough (masapan) figurines by hand and then paint them. It is a small town, but the work is exquisite. As we passed through the tiny streets, carcasses of pigs hung announcing the restaurants intentions. Next, we went through the Andes to Guayllabamba Valley and the exquisite Emerald River Valley. There were many volcanoes and heavy clouds all day. It is a semi-arid area with limestone interspersed with acacia and eucalyptus trees. This was a beautiful sight with many twisty climbs and turns. We stopped at a shop that makes Panama hats, which were used to ward off the sun during the building of the Panama Canal. They are made in Ecuador, but everyone assumes they are made in Panama. Who knew? Finally we arrived at Otavalo Market, where you can buy anything from linens, jewelry and brightly woven cloth to local delicacies. I walked through rows and rows of colorful textiles, elaborately woven ponchos, dresses, embroidered table cloths, and handmade jewelry. Street people were hawking their wares from fresh red strawberries, coco frio with straws to un-recognizable mystery meat. I breathed in the sights, sounds and smells of this fabulous outdoor bazaar. It was spectacular to see all this native merchandise in one place! And shop I did. Perhaps I need another suitcase to go home! Our last stop of the day was Cotachachi, a town that thrives on the leather trade. We had lunch at a local restaurant and I sampled "locro", a soup made with potatoes, white cheese and slices of avocado on top. Que rico! After lunch and great conversation with some of the international people on the bus, we decided to go shopping, of course. The shop keepers were patient and answered our questions about their products, town and the leather making process. Many people tan and make the leather goods, like shoes and belts right in the shops for tourists to purchase. Some of them were real works of art. The day was a wonderful look into the Ecuadorian culture and the artisans who make their wares as well as stunning vistas of the Andes and surrounding volcanoes, valleys and rivers. Arriving back at the hotel, I felt that I had found new friends and acquired a new found respect for Ecuador.

As I was having a leisurely breakfast, I pondered where to go first in the city. I settled on the central square as I had read that there was a tour given by the local Metropolitan Police. I took a taxi, as it is recommended to take taxis everywhere because of security, and when I arrived in Colonial Quito, I realized I had forgotten my camera! I had to take a taxi back to the hotel and then into the city again. What a white knuckle ride! I was supposed to meet a friend, but I was too late, so I decided to check out the city by myself. With its narrow streets, restored colonial architecture and lively plazas, Quito's Centro Histórico (the old town) is a great place to wander around. It was built centuries ago by indigenous artisans and laborers, and Quito's churches, convents, chapels and monasteries are cast in legend and steeped in history. At times, it's a hectic area, full of yelling street vendors, rambling pedestrians, tooting taxis, belching buses and whistle-blowing policemen trying to direct traffic in the narrow, congested one-way streets. On Sundays, they close the streets around the two- acre Plaza de Independencia so there is a throng of people. There are many people in the square, musicians, families, street performers and, alas, pick pockets. The square’s tall central monument has a “liberty” figure on top and is dedicated to the men of the 10th of August 1809. Sucre, the hero of Ecuadorian independence, is buried in the Cathedral. There is a huge police presence with many branches of the police represented. As I breathed in the scene, I saw clean, beautiful buildings surrounding the Plaza. There was the Archbishop's Palace, now a hotel with a cafe where locals come for coffee and food. In addition, there is the Cathedral, a spectacular church and the Governor's Palace, with very colorful guards on each side of the entrance. The Municipal building is mostly offices and an information area where I found out that the tour wouldn't start until later that day. As I had no time to lose, I left to explore the rest of the city on my own. I walked up the hill a bit through narrow city streets that are nearly at a 90· angle. The shop keepers were friendly and there were many people headed in the same direction as I was - toward La Basilica! When I arrived at La Basilica, which is a beautiful cathedral with wonderful spires and stairs leading to the bell tower, there were old women selling corn, ice cream and other foods out of baskets on the steps. To get to the top of the clock towers, the way is arduous. You have to climb three flights of winding stairs, traverse a wooden bridge, then climb 3 steep, steel ladders to reach the top. It is the best $2 I ever spent, as the views are spectacular! I could see Panecillo Hill and the rest of Quito. I stayed up there a long time just looking at the fantastic sights as the day was warm and clear. After I came back down to ground level, I went to see La Campania, another cathedral. The inside is gold everywhere you look! The people are so poor that they beg on the steps of the cathedral and it is so sad to see it with all that opulence. Finally, I took a taxi to the top of Panecillo Hill, (which seemed to go straight up to the sky) where the Virgin of Quito protects and overlooks the people of the city with wings 50 feet high. The views here are unbelievable and I left with a sense of awe for the city and its people.

Today, I hired a taxi for the entire day to see the sights around the PIchincha countryside. First, we went to La Midad del Mundo, or Middle of the World Monument. It is a geological monument where the equator separates the northern and southern hemispheres. My driver, Fanny and I walked all around and took pictures of the monument in the background with us straddling the equatorial line. Next we went to Inti Ñan which is the "real" place where the equator slices through the earth. We took a great tour and the guide explained about the Quichua culture, Amazon rites with shrunken heads and many experiments to show how things are different at the equator, One such experiment was to stand a raw egg on the head of a nail and I actually saw some people do it! I, of course, you guessed it, couldn't. Afterward, we went to TeleferiQo, which is a 15 minute cable car ride to Cruz Loma on the eastern face of the Pichincha Volcano and about 4,300 meters in an enclosed cable car. The view going up is spectacular because the city of Quito was in bright sunshine below and at the top, it is cold, rainy and cloudy. You can barely see your hand in front of your face. If you aren't careful, it is possible to get lost! As we descended, it began to rain in earnest. We were fairly hungry, so we found a vegetarian restaurant near the hotel (Hey! I had to find one! lol) and concluded our tour, just as the rain beat down, at the Botanical Gardens of Carolina Park. This park houses a Vivarium with snakes and amphibians of all sizes, shapes and colors. It is one of the largest parks in South America. Unfortunately, you can´t walk around in it very safely at night. None the less, it was gorgeous. So many flowers and plants that you will only find in Ecuador. Even the rain didn't dampen my spirits. As my time in Quito has come to an end, for now, I know that it is on to the Galapagos and more adventures tomorrow.

I was so excited I couldn't sleep! I awoke at dawn and when I arrived at the airport it was all fairly organized. I got my seat assignment and boarded the Tame plane that would wing its way about 600 miles (1,000 kilometers) to the Islands of the Galapagos. I arrived at Baltra and as I walked across the tarmac I nearly shouted with excitement. Daniel Sanchez, our guide for the next week, was waiting with a large sign to welcome us. As we took the short bus ride, my first impression of Baltra was one of wonder, not desolation, with flora in all shades of brown and green interspersed with gray. Then we took a short ferry ride across the Itabaca Channel with our luggage precariously balanced on the flat top. Next, we took a smaller bus to the top of Twin Craters passing through multiple vegetation zones finally placing us at the dock for my first glimpse of the HMS Beagle. She is a steel hulled, 105' motor schooner with room for 12 guests,(though we were only 8) 6 crew members and the guide. Luis, our panga driver smiled and I felt very welcome as we were helped from the panga to the ship. After a short briefing and boat drill, we checked out our accommodations. They were mighty spacious, two bunks, the bathroom (head in ship speak) and even a closet. I knew I would be in heaven for the next eight days. Soon we were on our way to the Darwin Research Station and National Park Headquarters where Daniel explained about the ongoing work they do including rearing pens for the 17 species of tortoise, eradication, breeding and relocation programs, and attempts to keep the islands safe as well as descriptions of the local flora and fauna. I saw my first blue footed boobie! In addition, I spotted Sally Lightfoot crabs and plenty of gray marine iguanas. We were up close and personal with the tortoises, esp. Lonesome George, sadly, the last of his species. He has been paired with a distance cousin, actually two, and they have produced eggs! We are keeping our fingers crossed. The hard work that they do at the Darwin Station is incredible. Daniel, our guide, is very well versed in all things Galapagos. He is personable, knowledgeable and enthusiastic about his chosen career. He has a degree in Marine Biology and is always willing to talk. If all the guides are as passionate as Daniel, the Galapagos is in good hands! We walked around Puerta Ayora, a town supporting about 15,000 people on the island of Santa Cruz. There were many stores as well as restaurants, and at the docks, the locals sell fish. We were told to get whatever we need as there wouldn't be any other opportunities to stock up. I bought sunscreen and a $6 sombrero to keep the sun off my face. What a bargain! I watched the locals playing games at the public dock. Finally, Lucho, as he liked to be called, picked us up in our chariot and we settled on to the Beagle for the 5 hour motor sail to the next island, Floreana. We had an elegantly prepared dinner and got acquainted with the each other.

The morning dawned crystal clear and I had a spectacular view of Santa Fe Island. The island was formed by an uplift, rather than a volcano, which gives it a table top shape. It was a wet landing at a sparkling turquoise cove, called Bahi Barrington, but the island was extremely hot and arid. We were advised to bring plenty of water to ward off dehydration. The first part of the walk that morning was through a giant cactus forest. The Prickly Pear or Opuntia forest is named for the pear shaped fruit of the cactus. They are nearly twenty feet high in places. I suppose this adaptation was to ward off the land iguanas attacks. Though some of the spines were larger than my fingers, cactus finches managed to nest inside the trunk. I spied a nest with two babies and a mom who came to feed them. Que bonita! A longer hike found us walking up the steep side of the cliffs through San Paulo and Scalesia trees as Daniel explained the geology of the area. Many tree finches sat in the Santos Paulo trees. Perhaps it was because the tree smelled faintly like incense. Here we saw the endemic Land Iguanas in and among the purslane munching the yellow flowers.These iguanas are the largest in the island chain and their golden color is similar to the cactus fruit they eat. Also on the path we watched mocking birds and their symbiotic relationship with the iguanas as they sat on their heads picking them clean of insects and other pests. The path continued past the iguanas to the top of the cliff where there was a breathtaking view of the cove below. We returned to the boat and went for a well earned snorkel and swim. After lunch and a siesta in the quiet cove, we once again went by panga to an islet close by and South Plaza. This was a dry landing on a flat table top island where the largest colony of sea lions in the entire archipelago resides. The hike was about 1 km, but it wound past many land iguanas and swallowtail gulls nesting on or near the cliffs. The gulls tended to their fluffy babies among the rocks. Walking along the top of the cliffs, I watched sea birds diving for food and soaring across the sky in front of me.The red-billed tropic bird with its beautiful long white, elegant tail floated just out of reach above my head. At the far end of the rocks, with a steep path, I sat quietly as a lone male made his way up to the top. These males have either been beaten by a larger, more aggressive male for their harem and have come to lick their wounds, are adolescents, not ready for the fight yet or they are old and need some respect. They even had their own bachelor pad! As we left there was always one more baby sea lion who wanted to be loved!

North Seymour Island is a flat table top growing out of the Pacific Ocean. Tuff and basalt with a vein of limestone make the island seem like a lunar landscape. Great Frigate birds and Blue Footed Boobies nest in the low branches. The gular, or pouch, fills as the males look for mates. More than one male sits in the trees flapping their wings and shaking their inflated pouches. There were hundreds of Magnificent and Great Frigatebird males with these pouches, flying, courting, nesting and simply trying to attract a mate. When a white female happens by, the males would flap their wings, push out their pouches and exclaim, "I am here. Look at me!" Sometimes there were many males competing for a single female. Not much different from human males really. (lol) Happy Mother's Day indeed! The young chicks call for their mother and each one has a distinct sound. I watched in awe as a female Frigatebird fed her growing baby by opening her beak as the youngster stuck its whole head down the throat for the predigested food. Ouch! Isn't nature wonderful? In addition to the showy Frigates, the Blue Footed Boobies were in abundance as well, dancing for their partners. Boobies and Frigates share an interesting relationship. Sharing the same nesting area on North Seymour, Blue Footed Boobies nest on the ground making their nests from the twigs of the Palo Santos trees, while the Magnificent Frigatebird nests just above them in the salt bushes. Frigatebirds on North Seymour rely on the fishing success of the Blue-Footed Booby for their survival. Blue-Footed Boobies are great at fishing. Hunting off-shore, the boobies dive from mid air into the sea in order to catch their fish. Successful, they return to the island with their prize to feed their young. Frigatebirds, named for the warships once used by pirates, are truly the pirates of Galapagos birds. In contrast to the Booby, Frigates do not excel at fishing. Their bodies produce very little oil for their wings and they are not waterproof. Unable to spend time in the water fishing they must rely on food stolen from other birds to feed themselves and their young. When a Booby or Red-Billed Tropicbird returns from a successful fishing trip, the Frigatebird will swoop down and molest the bird until it drops its catch. The Frigate then plucks the food from the air, feeding itself and its young from the stolen loot. As I completed our route on the flat circular hike,I noticed brown noddy terns and lava gulls swooping over the crystal clear water. Once back on the panga, I also observed fur seals, which are smaller than their cousins, the sea lions, sunning themselves on the rocks. Galapagos penguins surfed in the clear waters as I watched, amazed that I could be this close! What a gift to see them in their natural habitat. These are warm water penguins, similar to their cousins who love the ice and cold. After a satisfying lunch, we motored to Pinnacle Rock on Bartolome. This small island is located just off Sullivan Bay east of Santiago. Bartolome is a desolate island with few plants. The island consists of an extinct volcano and a variety of red, orange, green, and glistening black volcanic formations. The best known of the island's formations is the Tuff Cone known as Pinnacle Rock. This large, black, partially eroded lava formation was created when magma was forced from the volcano and reached the sea. When the sea waters cooled the hot lava it caused an explosion. The exploded particles eventually fastened together forming a rock composed of thin layers. Little vegetation grows in this barren place. Mangroves border the beach and the small shrub, Tiguilia grows in the volcanic sands. The seeds and tiny white flowers provide food for the island's finches. These plants are common to arid regions and are able to survive in these harsh volcanic conditions. After the last eruption, lava tunnels, very fragile now, dotted the landscape. The lava rushed from the top of the crater, now extinct, and cooled into tunnels as they reached the sea. The long boardwalk and steps leading to the top of Pinnacle Rock were steep and better than any Stairmaster! The lunar landscape continued to astonish my senses. The view from the top of the lighthouse was incredible! We could see an extinct caldera, Chinese Hat and the bay far below. Though there is little evidence of many forms of life in this harsh environment, the geology of the Galapagos fascinates me. Though it took many millions of years, the circle of hot magma cooling, volcanoes erupting, hot magma cooling, affirms that life begins anew. At last, we took pictures of the motley crew, all together after our amazing hike to the top. Each day was an amazing adventure and today was no exception!

After a leisurely breakfast of granola, milk and fruit, I looked at the island we would be visiting today. It is only from far away that you can actually see the shape of the Chinese Hat (hence its comical name) As we landed on the shore it was amazing to see that this ancient, miniature volcano, though one of the youngest in the archipelago, has changed little since its discovery many centuries ago. When the volcano spewed out it's fire, spitting gas and lava, it raced to the sea. The fragile lava formations, tubes and pillows are still visible as far as the eye can see. The rock had been compressed to thousands of degrees, forming impressions found only at the base of volcanoes. The waves explode on black rocks that have fallen into the sea. It is a landscape like no other. Here, at the water's edge, sea lions suckle their young, rest at the edge of the lava rocks, and the brave ones, as always, show their acrobatic moves in the punishing surf. There are seven species of crab, including the orange and blue Sally Lightfoot crab, and, along with ink black marine iguanas, scrabble for purchase among the smooth rocks. The tidal pools are abundant with the crabs and their eggs, waiting to hatch. Lava tunnels are everywhere. In my mind I can imagine the boiling, hot lava flowing down the mountainside only to be supercooled to the core as the molten rock reaches the sea.The black and brown landscape supports small whitish bushes (tigilia), as well as yellow flowers and lava cactus struggling to grow and survive in the scarce soil. The surrounding vistas from this pahoe hoe boulder strewn land are wide reaching. In the afternoon we snorkeled with aloof, white reef tipped sharks,saw multi-colored coral and the explosion of colorful fish and sea stars. The water is colder here because of the Humboldt current. As I didn't have a wet suit, the water was a bit uncomfortable for me and I didn't last as long as I wanted. Our last stop for the day was Dragon Hill, a virtual plethora of tall Scalesia trees, shrubs and greenery in numbers that we hadn't seen the entire trip. This area gets more rain per year, so everything grows in this hot, windy and rainy climate. The gentle slope through the Scalesia forest to the top had wonderful vistas of the bay and surrounding areas. It is named Dragon Hill as the first visitors saw many ugly dragons, i.e. land iguanas. Dragon Hill has become an important nesting site for iguanas reintroduced by the Charles Darwin Research Center. The success of the captive breeding program of the land iguana, is necessary because of the presence of introduced mammals, such as predators (cats, rats and dogs) and those that compete for the food supply (donkeys and goats) An eradication program is in effect for these non-native species. Birds abound, especially the mocking bird, who is a very curious fellow. Sulfur and monarch butterflies flit from flower to flower drinking nectar. We walked past a hypersalinic (saltier than the ocean) lagoon where I noticed common stilts, pintail ducks and other species of birds. It is sultry and still in the interior of the island, but very windy and scorching hot at the top. Rich, organic red soil helps keep erosion to a minimum. We could see Santa Cruz in the distance. The land iguanas look very fierce, with their yellow crowns and prehistoric skin. We watched many of the cold blooded reptiles cooling off in the shade and moving to protect themselves from other reptiles. They are silent, but watchful and I was in constant wonder that a relative from eons past could still exist here. As we returned to the sea for our panga ride back to the boat, we saw many black marine iguanas as they evidently congregate on boulders and sand near the water's edge to stay cool. Tonight we had a farewell dinner with Captain and the crew along with our ever present guide, Daniel. This has been a special trip and I will find it hard to say good-bye tomorrow. All the people who made this trip possible are to be commended for a job well done.

Watching the sun set over Baltra last night was heavenly. The stars were out in full force and I noticed the Southern Cross and Orion's belt as well as the North Star. I sat outside on the bow for hours just stargazing enveloped by a sense of peace. Having anchored at Baltra, we took an early morning panga ride meandering through the red mangrove lagoon to see the animals one last time as the sun came up over the horizon. In the hushed stillness, we learned that Black Turtle Cove is primarily a nursery for black reef tipped sharks and spotted rays as well as black turtles, (hence the name) and other marine animals. The cove is only accessible by panga and is totally silent. Large sea turtles slipped by soundlessly as noddy terns soared overhead only to end up sitting on a pelican's head and frigate birds watch for their chance to steal something, anything. Silent golden eagle rays glide effortlessly through the still, clear water, tips raised. Pelicans and Blue Footed boobies roost in the mangroves and dive straight down to scoop up their early morning breakfast. The scenery is reminiscent of South Florida, my other home and I realize my time has come to an end here in the Galapagos, for now. It is a still, quiet morning in Black Turtle Cove and though I would like to remain here all day in the solitude, we finally head back for the last look at our boat, and home. As we disembark at the passenger wharf, even the sea lions are sad to see us go. We all practice the "Blue Footed Booby Stomp", which someone catches on camera for future memories. I find it difficult to say good bye to the new friends I have made and as I board the plane my eyes well up with tears. Where has the time gone? I am taking home more than just photographs. I have a healthy respect for all animal life and memories of new adventures with life time friends. This trip has been a dream come true and I know I will be back again, and soon.

Like an old friend, the Eugenia Hotel and the staff greeted me with a smile. That evening I ate Locro soup at the Quito Hotel with a grand view of the setting sun and the lights blanketing the city. Some experiences are life affirming and I believe that my visit to Ecuador was such a trip. I loved the people, their culture, their cities and islands and I am going back to Miami a better person for having seen all of it. Buenas nochas and ciao. Kerry